Haircare Product Formulation: Trends and Key Considerations

Haircare is currently undergoing a major transformation, at the crossroads of science, well-being, and performance. Much like skincare, haircare is now part of a holistic approach centered on prevention, longevity, and respect for the scalp, the true foundation of hair health. Driven by rapidly evolving consumer expectations, the sector is shaped by strong trends such as skinification, sustainability, and the demand for proven efficacy, while also integrating pronounced cultural and regional specificities. In this dynamic context, it is essential to analyze new market directions, the growing focus on scalp care, and the scientific, regulatory, and safety challenges that accompany the development of increasingly expert formulations.

Highly dynamic, the haircare sector is evolving rapidly and reflects trends already observed in skincare. Longevity, for instance, is becoming a key focus, as hair is also a visible marker of the passage of time. Just as consumers seek products that help maintain healthy-looking skin over time (well-aging), they also aspire to preserve naturally beautiful hair for longer. Ingredients that protect the hair fiber from external aggressors, such as UV radiation, and that support hair growth are therefore particularly relevant.

Ingredient suppliers are increasingly testing actives initially developed for skincare applications for use in haircare, whether for fiber care or scalp care. Sustainability, once again mirroring trends in skincare and makeup, is also establishing itself as a major driver. The balance of the scalp and its microbiome is another growing area of focus, requiring dedicated attention.

Consumer expectations also vary significantly by region:

• In Europe, bio-optimization stands out: highly technical, science-based products with a strong appetite for naturality and formulations free from controversial ingredients;
• In the United States, “haircare is the new skincare,” driven by skinification: premium, expert formulations for targeted care, particularly focused on the scalp (scalp care);
• In Asia, haircare is part of a holistic vision of beauty, with luxurious and sensorial haircare routines;
• In Africa, traditional botanical haircare is being reinvented to better address the needs of textured hair, which still lacks sufficiently adapted solutions.

While haircare was once largely limited to addressing scalp disorders such as dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, concerns are now shifting toward maintaining a healthy scalp as a means of prolonging hair beauty. Broader issues such as longevity, prevention of exposome effects (UV, pollution, etc.), exfoliation, and the development of true scalp care routines, similar to facial skincare routines, are increasingly prevalent. Today, half of scalp-targeted products are still shampoos, leaving room for the development of new, more sensorial and user-friendly galenic forms within a rapidly growing segment.

It may be tempting to consider the scalp as a simple extension of facial skin, replicating facial skincare formulas with well-known ingredients and applying identical claims. However, although the basic structure of scalp skin is similar, it presents specific biological and physiological characteristics that must be taken into account:

• A higher density of hair follicles, influencing sebum production and the local microbiome;
• Larger and/or more active sebaceous and sweat glands, potentially leading to scalp-specific issues such as seborrheic dermatitis;
• Greater thickness of the dermis and epidermis;
• Rich vascularization and innervation (bulb nutrition);
• A barrier function that differs from that of facial skin;
• A specific microbiome, including a higher presence of Malassezia.

Care must therefore be taken to select ingredients whose benefits for the scalp and/or hair fiber have been clearly demonstrated, rather than simply transferring trending skincare ingredients. In the same spirit, it is essential to test formula efficacy specifically on the scalp and/or hair to support haircare claims and avoid consumer disappointment.

As with skincare, consumers increasingly seek hair and scalp products with proven efficacy. New testing methods are therefore being developed to validate the performance of ingredients and formulations on both the hair fiber and the scalp.

A recent test (polarized imaging and birefringence) enables analysis of the internal organization of keratins within the hair fiber, providing complementary efficacy evaluation. False-color coding allows visualization of the fiber’s internal structure, producing highly illustrative images for consumers. Claims related to fiber protection, repair, and strengthening can thus be substantiated.

Testing methods initially applied to facial skin can also be adapted to scalp and hair fiber evaluation, such as scalp color mapping or scanning fringe microscopy to assess the cuticle.

As with facial skin, the scalp is increasingly affected by sensitivity issues. Particular attention must therefore be paid to the cutaneous tolerance of products, as inflammation not only impacts comfort but can also negatively affect hair quality. Certain product categories, such as hair dyes and straightening products, require a high level of formulation expertise to limit adverse reactions.

According to ANSES, during the 2024/2025 cosmetovigilance campaign, 21% of reported adverse effects were linked to haircare products. Among these cases, nearly half were classified as serious adverse effects. The products most frequently involved include coloring and bleaching products, as well as straightening treatments, such as those containing glyoxylic acid, which has been implicated in cases of renal failure.

Another specific characteristic of haircare products is professional exposure. In France, hairdressing is the second-largest craft industry, with more than 100,000 establishments. Professional use conditions must therefore be considered when formulating products intended for this market, in order to adapt ingredient selection and concentrations accordingly. Indeed, the European Cosmetic Regulation (EC No. 1223/2009) may specify different restrictions or concentration limits for certain ingredients compared to products intended for the general public. Professional use also requires heightened attention to product safety and tolerance due to increased exposure.

The haircare sector is undergoing a profound transformation, driven by increasingly demanding consumers in terms of efficacy, safety, and meaning. Inspired by skincare, haircare is now part of a holistic beauty approach in which scalp health has become a central lever for hair longevity and quality. While skinification opens new perspectives in terms of ingredients, galenic forms, and routines, it also requires increased scientific rigor, taking into account the biological specificities of the scalp and hair fiber. In this context, the development of innovative testing methods, combined with a stronger focus on tolerance and safety, is essential to ensure high-performing and responsible products for both consumers and professionals. The growing integration of biotechnology, artificial intelligence, and personalized care could further redefine the contours of haircare, offering tailored solutions capable of addressing individual needs with ever-greater precision while meeting environmental challenges.