Natural and organic cosmetic products: what frame? 

The growing demand for natural and organic cosmetic formulations has led to significant growth of this kind of product. Brands and manufacturers are being asked to make cosmetic formulas that are more natural. Organic standards, natural, organic ingredients, natural index, etc. All these terms and labels can be confusing.

Natural, organic and others: definitions

Among the jungle of "green" cosmetics, it seems useful to know some definitions to help us better understand what we mean. A natural ingredient comes from a botanical, animal, or mineral origin. It can be obtained by a physical process (for example, extraction like distillation for essential oils), but not by a chemical process that changes the structure of the molecule. This last case refers to a natural origin ingredient. More than 50% of the molecule has to be natural in order for it to be called a natural origin ingredient. An organic ingredient must have been cultivated (or bred if it's from animal origin) following the principles of organic farming. An organic ingredient is always natural, but not the other way around. Moreover, water and mineral ingredients are not considered organic (but they are natural). An organic origin ingredient has been modified by the same processes as a natural origin ingredient, from an organic ingredient. 
In France, a cosmetic product can claim to be natural or from natural origin if it contains at least 95 % of natural ingredients or natural origin ingredients respectively, according to the ARPP (the french competent authority for advertising). This percentage is calculated with the natural index or the natural origin index of the ingredients, adjusted with their concentration in the finished product. An ARPP also states that cosmetic products can claim to be organic if they are certified by an accredited body, if they contain 100 % organic ingredients or if they are created following a requirement specification as stringent as the requirements for accredited bodies. The calculation of the natural origin ingredients percentage was not regulated, leading to inconsistency. That's why an ISO norm, dedicated to the question of natural and organic cosmetics, was published.

The ISO 16 128 norm: an international frame

Industrial companies, academics, and non-governmental organizations worked to craft an ISO standard for the accreditation of natural and organic cosmetics, the ISO 16128 norm "Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients". The first part, published in 2016, introduces the definition of the four categories of ingredients, as described earlier. The second part, published in 2017, describes the calculation of the indexes associated with ingredients categories (Picture). It is the raw material suppliers' responsibility to calculate the content of finished products in natural, natural origin, organic, or organic ingredients. A good formulation software, a field with all the information needed, gives the calculation in real-time during the product development and is a great tool for formulation optimization. 

The indexes of ingredients according to the ISO 16128 norm
 The ISO 16128 norm is not mandatory to follow. Before its publication, suppliers were free to use their own calculation method of indexes, and it was quite complicated to calculate the index for the final product. Note that following this standard is not mandatory, but it may serve as a technical basis for the competent authorities (this is the case for example in France). It may also serve as a foundation for European Commission for further work around natural or organic cosmetics. The ISO 16128 norm is not made to ban ingredients in a natural cosmetic product or to frame the associated claims. These requirements depend more on labels and certifications. 

Organic and natural products: labels and certifications for cosmetics

As organic cosmetics are not regulated, several labels exist in Europe, each one with its own standard. In contrast to the most famous in Europe, Cosmos, and Nature, some private labels don't need a certification from an accredited organization. Cosmos is a standard created jointly by Cosmebio, Ecocert, the BDIH, the ICEA, and the Soil Association in order to create a harmonized European standard. Cosmos labels must conform to the Cosmos standards and be certified. The Cosmos standard authorizes or prohibits ingredients, sets minimum natural/organic percentages, and defines the claims a product may make or the shape of the packaging it may display. Besides the standard, Cosmos' website has helpful documentation for manufacturers. It establishes five ingredients categories, that are essential for the Cosmos calculation. In order for a product to be certified Cosmos organic, at least 20 % of its ingredients must be organic (except for some products that were at least 10 %). A Cosmos natural label is also available for products not meeting the required minimum percentage. Ingredients can also be labeled as Cosmos certified or Cosmos approved. The product must be certified by an accredited body in order to display the Cosmos label: Bureau Veritas, Ecocert, or Cosmecert in France for example. This certification assures that not only the product but also the labeling, communication, packaging, and environmental aspects of the lifecycle are compliant with the standard. There must be a discussion regarding any changes with the certification body, and an annual audit is required. Other labels, like Nature or Cosmébio, can go beyond the Cosmos standard.
 

Conclusion 

The growing market of organic and natural cosmetics can sometimes be confusing for consumers. The publication of the ISO norm and the requirements of certification can help them choose. Nevertheless, there appears to be room for improvement: during its 2019 control campaign, 40 percent of the deficiencies identified by the DGCCRF were about natural and organic claims. Inspections will continue on this topic in 2020, showing that this subject is being closely monitored.