Looking Back at Cosmetic 360, 2025

Now established as the must-attend event for the cosmetics industry each fall, Cosmetic 360 took place at the Carrousel du Louvre for two days dedicated to innovation. Organized by Cosmetic Valley, the show stands out for its focus on showcasing cross-industry innovations not only within cosmetics, but also from other sectors that could inspire it. Each year, a central theme guides the event’s structure and conferences, complemented by broader trends reflected in the Cosmetic 360 Awards.

The 2025 edition highlighted the growing importance of predictive technologies in the cosmetics sector and across industries. Anticipation is now essential to stay ahead in a fast-moving market challenged by consumer expectations, social media influence, regulatory shifts, and sustainability goals.

Across the value chain, AI and data-driven models are being implemented to design safer, more innovative, and more consumer-aligned products. While last year’s edition already showed a strong rise in predictive models for diagnostics and personalized consumer recommendations, this year confirmed a deeper integration of modeling and anticipation tools at every stage of product development.

From AI-assisted ingredient discovery to optimized supply chain management, formulation support, and testing, predictive technologies are driving agility, reducing costs, and even minimizing the environmental footprint of product design.

Coptis was of course present at the show, showcasing Purple AI, our generative and predictive AI solution integrated into the Coptis PLM platform. AI is indeed a powerful lever for cosmetic R&D and formulation — but only when powered by qualified data. Using generic or fragmented AI tools carries significant risks: formulation errors, compliance failures, or misalignment with market needs.

Beyond big data, the key lies in smart data:  structured, expert-validated, and contextualized. Coptis PLM transforms your data into a reliable, actionable foundation, paving the way for trustworthy, scalable AI that truly enhances innovation.

Beyond the “Predictions” theme, many exhibitors unveiled their latest innovations. Unsurprisingly, sustainability remains a major driver of innovation. More and more raw materials are derived from upcycling, valorizing co-products or waste from other industries such as food, or from biotechnological processes like fermentation. Marine-derived ingredients and algae-based actives produced in bioreactors are also gaining ground, reinforcing the blue beauty movement.

The regulatory landscape continues to influence innovation, particularly with the EU restriction on microplastics. Alternatives to synthetic polymers, palm oil derivatives (ahead of upcoming anti-deforestation regulations), and petrochemical ingredients are on the rise. Beyond eco-design, the focus is on maximizing natural ingredient efficacy, creating a more responsible yet high-performing cosmetics industry.

Among consumer-driven trends, exosomes continue to gain traction, alongside other encapsulation technologies (vesicles, liposomes, microbeads, and capsules). Plant-based and algae-derived exosomes promise cutting-edge biomimetic cosmetics, emphasizing natural processes. Some even allow customization, loading exosomes with specific actives.

Already visible last year, the connection between beauty and neuroscience has strengthened, supported by AI and predictive tools. This convergence points toward a more holistic, well-being-oriented beauty approach.

One of the show’s highlights is the Cosmetic 360 Awards Ceremony, honoring the most innovative projects as selected by a professional press jury in each category. Three nominees per category compete before the show, but only one winner takes home the award: a major visibility boost, especially for start-ups and SMEs.

The 2025 winners were:

• Raw Materials: Sparxell for its cellulose-based, structurally colored pigment inspired by butterfly wings.
• Formulation: Technature for its color-changing hydrogel mask, signaling when application time is complete.
• Testing & Analysis: Brain Impact for its AI-assisted fMRI analysis of consumer decision-making markers.
• Packaging & Packing: Nexdot for Parelux, a quantum dot UV protective coating for transparent, recyclable nail polish bottles.
• Brands & Retail: Byome Labs for its in-store microbiome analysis providing personalized recommendations in under two minutes.
• Manufacturing Process: Smey for its AI-optimized yeast bank enabling sustainable, tailor-made lipid production through fermentation.

Reflecting the growing influence of predictive technology across the value chain, the jury’s special award for the Predictions theme went to Cosmetopack, a joint project by Polymeris and Cosmetic Valley, which models container-content interactions to improve packaging safety.

Once again, Cosmetic 360 demonstrated the vitality of the cosmetics industry powered by innovation. Increasingly driven by predictive tools, the sector continues to evolve, integrating new models for personalization, active ingredient research, testing, process optimization, and formulation.

Yet in a field where compliance, traceability, and scientific accuracy are critical, data remains the foundation. Building reliable predictive systems requires data quality, integrity, and governance; the pillars of a truly future-ready cosmetics R&D ecosystem.